What, where and when to maintain?

Which oils and where and when :

Everything below is described according to my own experiences. I do not take any responsibility for it under any circumstances.

Everyone says that engines and cars last 1 million km. Yes... with proper maintenance, then yes! And with a driving style in which you drive calmly when cold. And with a maximum of 3500 rpm on the highway, then yes.

A G-Class can easily tow 3500 kg. (Check your board documents if you can tow it legally). Please note that this reduces the life span. Some G's were equipped with airbrakes and could tow up to 5500 kg. The Dutch KLM used 290 GD's to move big buoying 747's etc. (These weigh 183.500 Kg) So power enough !

For the 240D and 300 GD W460 /W461

Engine: ordinary mineral oil (no semi or full) 15W 40.  The 300 GD uses 7,0 ltr +0,2 when changing the oil filter.

Gearbox 4-speed : 1,7 L ATF dextron II / B ( this is a red oil )

Gearbox 5 speed : Mercedes prescribes ATF dextron II.  I do not recommend this. Fill up with normal mineral oil ( no semi or full !!!) 15W 40. The gearbox will make less noise and shift better when hot.

Automatic gears: 7.0L ATF dextron II / B (this is a red oil). Always replace the filter and the seal of the oil pan. Oil pan tightening with max 20Nm!

Servo steering box /servo pump: 1 L ATF dextron II / B (this is a red oil). Also replace the filter in the servo pump.  Order no. : Hengst E26H. or Mann filter H85 or MB 0004662104 . Often this has never been done, and especially few technicians know that there is a filter there!

Brake oil: when using DOT 4: maximum 2 years, preferably every year, regardless of the km's! Flush with vaccuum until nice oil comes out everywhere, starting with La, then Ra, then Rv and finishing with Lv

If you use full synthetic DOT 5.1: first blow through all lines with compressed air, replace all flexibles, and then rinse extensively, then after 1 year of use briefly bleed everything again until you have nice fresh oil everywhere. After that, every 7 years just vent everything again. I have been using DOT 5.1 oil for > 17 years in several of my cars, it really is superior!

The same for clutch oil, and the barrier oils: same remark as for the brake oil and wait maximum 2 years before changing. If you do this consistently, you almost never have no costs or repairs to these parts! Once, an old workshop manager of a MB dealer told me that he never had to replace a clutch, if the vehicle was always serviced by them in time. Makes sense, what can wear out a clutch?

Do you use a pressure washer to hose down the engine? Cover all the reservoirs of these oils before you start! Because : Brake fluid (except DOT 5.1 etc ) is hygroscopic which means that it absorbs water from the air. This lowers the boiling point of the fluid and takes water particles into the components causing rust and damage to the internal parts, resulting in failure!

If you notice that the oil is black before you start changing it, this often means that the internal parts of the flexibles are dissolving. This is actually quite normal. This process usually starts after 15 years. After 20 years, hairline cracks appear on the outside. Before you replace all DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 oils, think about this. Especially when changing to DOT 5.1, replace all flexibles and blow through all metal pipes with compressed air!

All flexibles, both brake and spool flexibles are for sale on our website here at very low affordable prices. Your life may depend on your brake system, so

you are going to save on this ????

 

 

 

Front axle: 1.6 L 80W90 mineral oil. Preferably remove oil when warm. First flush with the filler cap open at the bottom until fresh oil comes out.

Rear axle: 1.6 L 80W90 mineral oil. Preferably remove the oil when warm, first flush with fresh oil from the bottom of the reservoir.

Transfer box: 2.25L 75W90 mineral oil. Same remark as for the axles. Experience has taught us that you cannot fill up this transfer case correctly. You think that it is full, because the oil runs over, and yet... it is not correct.  Fill this transfer case and check again after 200 km of driving in cold condition.  Usually you can add another 0.3 litres. Only then is the transfer case correctly filled with oil.

Lubrication of the cardans: If with cone grease nipples: Practically any grease will do. E.g. lithium multipurpose grease etc. I myself use multipurpose grease Nr 3. This is a blue coloured grease which is very water resistant.

When using grease nipples: I use sae 120 oil in my pressure pump.

And now the thing that is always forgotten with a G-Class.

The front wheel drive is done with homokinets in a ball. Remove the left front wheel, and halfway, on the side of the sphere, in the direction of the seats ( firewall so ) is a big internal bolt head. (From 1990 onwards, this is an external hexagon) Unscrew this.  Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Now an opening will appear. This opening should be half full of grease.

Often there is nothing left at all. However, this takes care of the lubrication of the bearings and the sealing and lubrication of the half-full. It is not easy to fill up, but with a grease pump and patience, you will succeed. When empty, 0.5 kg of grease goes in! The same grease as I have described for cone grease nipples on the cardans.

At the front of the brake disc, between the wheel bolt holes, there is a metal cover of about 7 cm diameter. Loosen it (at the back with a screwdriver). Remove old/hard grease. Fill this for 85% with grease. Also push some grease between the bearings that are now visible. Turn the brake disc around so you can see the grease disappearing into the bearings and fill up again.  Then reinstall the grease filled cover, and do the same on the right wheel side.

Check the grease in the sphere at every maintenance and top it up if necessary. Do not forget this! If you notice that some grease is hanging on the outside of the sphere after riding, this is actually not a disaster. This indicates that the hard rubber seal no longer seals perfectly. But I would not replace it. It provides an additional water seal and lubrication for the outer bulb. You only need to top up the grease during each maintenance session. Grease is not expensive either, it is even cheaper than most oils.

My personal experience and conversations with technicians have shown that even official MB and Puch dealers and army workshops do not know about it or deliberately do not top it up because it is a dirty job. Too bad!

When mounting the wheels, use a little copper grease on the wheel bolts. Tighten with a torque spanner to 130 NM. With aluminium rims, see the instructions of the rim manufacturer; normaly 110Nm

 

 

 

 

When to replace?

 

The diesel engine in a G-Class turns at a much higher speed than the same engine in a passenger car. Moreover, we usually drive at full throttle with those engines.

Engine oil: every 5,000 Km

Oil filter : every 15 000Km or when changing brand/type of oil.

Gearbox : 4v every 25000km

Gearbox: 5vit; every 10 000 km; these gearboxes are very sensitive to breakage and very expensive to repair. Do not save on maintenance of these gearboxes!

                        Automatic gearbox: every 50 000km

Servo steering box: filter and oil: when you buy the car and then every 50 000km including filter!

Front and rear axle: experience shows that the front axle oil is more susceptible to wear than the rear axle. After all, the differential inside turns a lot when taking a corner. Check at every service and if the oil takes on a coffee colour, replace it immediately.

Otherwise, every 15 000 km.

Transfer box: between 15 000 and 25 000 km.

Clutch, barrier and brake oil; every 2 years at the most before you change the oil, better still every year. When using DOT 5.1 : see explanation above. (every 7 years).

Cardans : every 5000Km and every time after offroad driving in the mud.

Front axle bulbs ; check / fill up every 5000KM .

Lubricate door hinges and all locks: At my MB garage they use Tunap 101 micro logic.  This is a liquid synthetic grease that becomes slightly thick immediately after application. Highly recommended!

Also grease all gas control rods with this!

Valve adjustment: every 15,000 km. Very important, this ensures a very large power gain and quieter running!

Injectors: Replace the injectors (and the fire plates underneath) when you buy the car and every 75 000 km. This will reduce fuel consumption (sometimes up to 1.5 litres per 100 km) and increase power and quiet running to a very large extent!

Air filter; blow out every 5000 Km and / or after every (dusty) offroad use.

Then replace it between 15 000 and 25 000 km depending on the pollution.

Diesel filter: every 15 000 km

Pre-diesel filter: every 15 000 km or in case of the transparent versions; depending on the pollution.

Inflating tyres, incl. spare wheel: every 5 000 km or at the beginning of a big drive.

Change of coolant : every 5 years.

Blow out front brakes : every service

Rear brakes : every 15 000 km or earlier. The brake shoes adjust themselves. If this adjustment system works well, it is therefore maintenance-free, except for blowing out the dust once in a while. Nice detail: the rear brakes adjust their wear when you brake briefly when reversing (!!!) .

 

 

 

 

Swiss 230 GE Puch:

 

Everything almost identical as described above.

Except the engine oil is a semi synthetic 10W40.

Attention, this does not count for a normal 230GE ! There you have to use a normal mineral 15W40 !

Further on:

There is no filter in the servo pump.

The fuel filter is on the right rear side. Replace it when you buy the car and every 25000km. This filter is often forgotten and yet very important.

Spark plugs, cables, distributor cap and rotor: replace every 25,000 km.

Every 10 000 km : remove the rotor and drop 1 or 2 drops of engine oil in the centre of the shaft. This lubricates the internal flyweights and ensures that you do not get any wear on your distributor.

Coolant filter: every 25 000 km. Replacement coolant see above.

The Swiss puch has an OM 102 engine with double chain and hydraulic tappets. Valve adjustment is therefore not possible and not necessary. A normal 230 GE has a single chain and the valves need to be regulated. When driving on LPG, adjust every 5000 km! With petrol 15 000 km.

G 350 turbo ( 1991 1996)

Semi-synthetic 10 W40 oil change 7L + 1.5 oil filter every 7000km

When towing trailers max 25 000km and change everything

Front axle 1.4 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20.000 km and change everything

Rear axle 1.8 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20.000 km and change everything

Transfer box 80w 90 GL4 2.8L change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20 000 km and change everything

 

Auto boite atf dextron 2

For gearbox overhaul 7.3 L, for filter change 6.2 max 50 000 km. With intensive heavy trailer use 35 000 km.

Servo Steering ATF dextron 2

G 300 (1990 1994)

Semi synthetic 10 w40 oil change 7L + 1.5 oil filter every 7000km

Front and rear axle 1.8 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush old oil!

Front axle 1.4 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

Rear axle 1.8 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first rinse out old oil!

Auto boite atf dextron 2D = IID At gearbox overhaul 7.3 L , at filter change 6.2

max 50 000 km. With intensive heavy trailer use 35 000 km.

5-speed manual transmission 1.5 L to gearbox code 7 340 240 atf dextron IID change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil

In case of intensive heavy trailer use, max. 20 000 km

 

1.5 L from gearbox code 7 340 24: use monograde 75W GL4 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil

In case of intensive heavy trailer use, max. 20 000 km

 

 

 

 

 

G300 turbo ( 1996 to 2001)

Semi synthetic 10 w40 oil change 7L + 0.5 oil filter every 10000km

Rear axle 1.8 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20 000 km and change everything

Front axle 1.4 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20 000 km and change everything

Transfer box 80w 90 GL4 2.8L change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20 000 km and change everything

Auto boite atf dextron 2D = IID at change with filter 8L

max 50 000 km. In case of intensive heavy trailer use, 35 000 km.

Check for leakage on the connection pipe. Replace the filter if there is any leakage! Very important with this type of gearbox!

Servo steering wheel atf dextron 2D = IID

G400 ( 2000 2006)

Full synt 5 w 30 9L 10000 a 15 000 km

Rear axle 1.8 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first rinse out old oil!

When towing trailers, max 20 000 km and change everything

Front axle 1.4 Ltr 80w90 GL5 change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

When towing trailers, max. 20 000 km and change everything

Transfer box 75w 90 GL4 2.8L change 25000 to max 40000 first flush out old oil!

Auto boite atf dextron 2D = IID at change with filter 8L

max 50 000 km. With intensive heavy trailer use 35 000 km.

servo steering atf dextron 2D = IID